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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.